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Friday, May 17, 2019

Beet-Pickled Deviled Eggs

Beet-pickled Deviled Eggs

There are two things that I always order if I see them on a menu: pretzels and deviled eggs. I don't mean like a baggie of pretzels, obviously, but a nice big soft one with mustard dip or maybe some beer cheese. And deviled eggs are self-explanatory. I love a creamy, tangy deviled egg. I will eat an entire order myself if I have to.

With this in mind, I've already posted a recipe for delicious, surprisingly easy pretzel bites, but I've never posted deviled eggs. I can't even remember the last time I made deviled eggs myself rather than just ordering them at a restaurant. The basic version is quite simple: the yolks are blended with mayonnaise, mustard, and vinegar. But everyone has their own little touch, whether it's subtle like curry powder or something more interesting (the best ones I've had recently had salmon roe hidden under the filling and were topped with crumbled potato chips). I didn't want to post just any deviled eggs.

And so, I give you: Beet-pickled Deviled Eggs.

Beet-pickled Deviled Eggs

This genius twist on the recipe was not my idea; I got it from Pinterest, where photos of these neon-pink-edged eggs are, as you can imagine, rather popular. But pickling the eggs doesn't just give them color, it also imbues them with a tangy and sweet flavor that elevates them way above other deviled eggs I've had. And yes, they're also gorgeous.

I came up with my own recipe for the filling on these, and did add one unique touch that I'm pretty proud of: miso paste. The sweetness of the pickling brine really needs some additional umami flavor to balance it out, and the miso does this perfectly. I would definitely add it to a traditional recipe as well!

And while the eggs were pickling, I threw in some spring onions for Gibsons. Why not?

Beet-pickled Deviled Eggs

Beet-Pickled Deviled Eggs

For the pickling:
1 jar pickled beets
1 cup apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 tbsp. whole peppercorns
1 tsp. salt
6 eggs, boiled and peeled*

For the filling:
3 tbsp. mayonnaise
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
1/2 tsp. miso paste
1/2 tsp. apple cider vinegar
1/2 tsp. lemon juice
1 dash salt

Combine all of the ingredients for the pickling solution in a large bowl or jar and stir well. Be careful, as the beet brine will stain! Carefully add the eggs. Try to bury them under the beets so that they are completely submerged. Any part of an egg not under the brine will come out a lighter pink than the rest. Let sit in the fridge for about 16 hours. The longer they pickle, the more of the interior will be pink. The flavor will also become more intense.

Beet-pickled Deviled Eggs

After the pickling is done, remove the eggs with a slotted spoon and blot on a paper towel. Carefully cut them in half and remove the yolks, placing them in a bowl. Add filling ingredients and mash with a fork or beat with an electric mixer until very smooth. Adjust seasonings to taste.

Fill egg halves with the filling using a pastry bag or frosting gun. Top with a little paprika and serve.

*I don't want to tell you how to boil an egg, but actually I kind of do. I tried the method recommended by The Kitchn and it was a disaster - I took off big chunks of the whites in the process. So I switched to this one and it was perfection: bring the water to a rolling boil, add the eggs straight from the fridge, and boil them for 12 minutes. Remove them with a slotted spoon and put them in ice water for five minutes. Start peeling from the broader end, where the air pocket usually is. Voilà!

Pickling recipe adapted from The Kitchn.

Monday, May 6, 2019

Cosmopolitan

Cosmopolitan cocktail

The Cosmopolitan is like a pop song. It was wildly popular for a brief time and became ubiquitous to the point of annoyance. Then one day it became considered cheesy and overdone, an embarrassing thing to like. It's the Macarena of the cocktail world.

Well, we're in a period where everyone seems to crave nostalgia, and I don't doubt that the Macarena is being played a bit more often these days - perhaps even without the usual hefty dose of irony. I mean, I heard "Oops I Did it Again" on the radio three times this week. And it was released in 2000, the year after the Cosmo made its big debut on Sex and the City and became the it-cocktail of the era. It's actually a prime time for the Cosmopolitan to make a comeback.

Cosmopolitan cocktail

I also think the importance of the Cosmopolitan to the craft cocktail world shouldn't be understated. In a dark age of cocktails, it was something new and fresh. It reminded us that there are still great drinks out there to be made, still things we haven't tasted. And the Cosmo also made it very clear that presentation matters. Small touches matter. That's why thousands of people opted for the pink drink in the pretty glass with the dash of Cointreau instead of their usual vodka cranberry.

Does this mean I'm frequently mixing up Cosmos for myself at home? No. If I'm being honest, it's not my drink. There's just not enough to it for me - I will always prefer a more flavorful spirit like gin or rum over vodka. But I think it deserves a place in my blog archives, and I will happily whip one up on request. And if you like them, don't be embarrassed.

Cosmopolitan cocktail

History: I was quite surprised to discover that the Cosmopolitan's origins are as murky as you might expect from a 200-year-old classic, not a drink invented in the 90's. It's a problem of too much information rather than not enough. Multiple people take credit for the recipe or claim to know when and by whom it was invented. And that may be because it was actually created more than once. Cheryl Charming has written a ridiculously detailed article on the Cosmo's history in which she researches all the various claims in-depth - a worthy read if you're an avid cocktail historian. No doubt some people will disagree with her conclusions, but the impressive amount of research and journalism she has done on the subject makes me feel that she is the most reliable source I've encountered. So below I will sum up her conclusions.

The Cosmopolitan is a variation of the Kamikaze shot, which is made with vodka, lime juice, and triple sec. It appears to have been invented twice independently by two different people who named it the same thing. This does seem rather improbable, but stranger things have happened.

The first inventor is Neal Murray. Around 1975 he was working at the Cork 'n Cleaver Steakhouse in Golden Valley, Minnesota. He made his fair share of Kamikaze shots, and decided to combine the Kamikaze with the Cape Cod (vodka, cranberry juice, and a lime wedge). One of his regulars asked about the drink and Murray replied, "I just thought it needed a little color." This was a joke, as Murray was black and was almost not hired because of it. His regular responded, "How cosmopolitan!" Murray would tell bartenders how to make the drink whenever he traveled, helping the recipe spread.

The second inventor is Cheryl Cook, who tended bar in South Beach, Florida. In March of 1989, Cosmopolitan magazine had just come out with an issue that contained an article on female Maître D's, and it featured one of Cook's coworkers. The cover of the issue was bright pink. Absolut had also just released their Citron vodka, and Cook had a bottle to play with. She made a variation on the Kamikaze with cranberry juice to make it pink like the cover of the magazine. The drink was so popular that the bottle of Absolut ran dry that evening, and the recipe spread to other bars in South Beach and beyond.

Cosmopolitan cocktail

Could both tales be true? I'd like to think so, and Charming certainly does. There is ample evidence to support both.

So, on to the drink! There are a lot of Cosmo recipes out there, and they vary not only in the proportions of the ingredients but the ingredients themselves (regular vodka vs. Citron, triple sec vs. Cointreau, Rose's lime juice vs. fresh). I tested several versions and decided I liked the one below the best. Feel free to tweak it until it's perfect for you.

Cosmopolitan

1.5 oz. Absolut Citron
3/4 oz. triple sec
1 oz. cranberry juice
3/4 oz. lime juice

Combine ingredients in a shaker with ice and shake until chilled. Strain into a martini glass and garnish with a lime wedge.

Friday, May 3, 2019

Recipe Round-Up: Cinco de Derby

Every year, two of the best excuses to have a cocktail - the Kentucky Derby and Cinco de Mayo - fall within the same week, and sometimes on the same day. It's a bit of a shame because it really forces you to choose between Mint Juleps and Margaritas. I thought I'd make the decision a bit easier by rounding up all of my favorite recipes for these two iconic cocktails.


Mint Julep

1. Mint Julep. This classic version of the Derby staple uses a mint syrup that makes it easy to batch - allowing you to enjoy the race.


Margarita

2. Margarita. I recently started making Margaritas at home again on a regular basis and I really forgot how utterly delicious they are. I recommend altering the recipe here to use 1/4 oz. agave nectar instead of the simple syrup.


Champagne Julep

3. Champagne Julep. This oh-so-classy Cognac julep is lengthened by a few ounces of sparkling wine.


Blood Orange Margarita

4. Blood Orange Margarita. Blood orange juice lends an absolutely stunning color to this cocktail without taking it too far from the flavor of a classic Margarita.


Pineapple Rum Julep

5. Pineapple Rum Julep. This was my Derby drink of choice last year. Using pineapple syrup and a quality aged rum instead of the typical bourbon puts a deliciously tropical spin on the classic.


Spiced Cranberry Margarita

6. Spiced Cranberry Margarita. I created this marg as an unexpected Thanksgiving cocktail, but it's a great choice any time of year. Skip the spices in the cranberry syrup if you want something that tastes a bit more summery.


Basil Cranberry Julep

7. Basil Cranberry Julep. Speaking of cranberry syrup, save some for this unique mezcal-based julep. It's my favorite Kentucky Derby/Cinco de Mayo crossover cocktail.


Grilled Pineapple Margarita

8. Grilled Pineapple Margarita. Grilling pineapple rings before muddling them into this margarita caramelizes them and adds a hint of smoke that pairs perfectly with a dash of mezcal.


Tea Thyme mocktail

9. Tea Thyme. For the non-drinkers, this mocktail made with black tea and peach is a perfect southern-inspired sipper for Derby watching.


Spicy Sandia watermelon mocktail

10. Spicy Sandia. Or if you're in more of a margarita mood, this spicy watermelon mocktail should hit the spot!

Wednesday, April 24, 2019

Islay and Olive

Islay and Olive, a dirty vodka martini with smoky Scotch

Do you ever look at a cocktail recipe and think, “That’s so weird that it just might be delicious?” That was my reaction to the Islay and Olive when I first saw it in Maggie Hoffman’s book Batch Cocktails. It’s a combination of two of the coolest, classiest drinks you can order – a dirty Martini and an Islay single malt. Both of which I adore. But I never would have thought to combine these already-polarizing liquids in the same cocktail. But it works, and it works wonderfully. The smoke of the Scotch adds a whole new dimension to the savory brine of a dirty vodka martini. Olive oil and a dash of salt turn it into something really special. Admittedly, if you don’t like dirty martinis or smoky Scotch, you will probably not like this drink. But if you like both of them, you must try it. Like immediately.

As with the Principessa di Sole I posted a few weeks ago from the same book, the recipe for the Islay and Olive was printed in batched format, with quantities for 12 servings. I love that Maggie included interesting, spirit-forward drinks like this in the book as well as the usual fruity punches. Although this one isn’t exactly the kind of thing I’d roll up to a party with and expect everyone to love. So I’ve done the math and adjusted the recipe instructions for a single cocktail.

History: This drink was created by Shaun Traxler, a bartender at Vault in Fayetteville, Arkansas.

Islay and Olive, a dirty vodka martini with smoky Scotch

Islay and Olive

1.5 oz. vodka
Scant 1.25 oz. Islay single-malt (such as Laphroaig)
¾ oz. dry vermouth
1 dash orange bitters
1 dash olive brine
1 pinch salt
Olive oil, to garnish.

Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass with ice and stir until chilled. Strain into a coupe. Garnish with a dash of olive oil (I like using my mister for ease and drama), a lemon twist, and several Castelvetrano olives (frozen, if you’d like).

Recipe adapted from Batch Cocktails. I was provided with an advance copy of the book.

Wednesday, April 17, 2019

Kingston Negroni

Kingston Negroni

You might define a really, really good cocktail as one that is perfect just how it is, requiring no alterations. So it's a bit funny that it's the really good cocktails that get riffed on and played around with the most. It's not a bad way to experiment, especially if you're new to designing your own drinks: take a formula you know you love and try swapping out one of the ingredients. Maybe it won't work right away; craft cocktail recipes are carefully-tuned, and switching something out may require a bit less or more of something. Figuring out exactly what works can be really interesting, and good practice for building your own recipes from scratch.

It's hard to find a cocktail more beloved (or one with more variations) than the Negroni. Its simplicity is what makes it great, and also what makes it easy to adjust. Like whiskey more than gin? Try a Boulevardier. Find Campari too bitter? Use Aperol instead. Want something a bit lighter? Substitute dry vermouth for the usual sweet. I've seen some Negroni variations get quite elaborate (and in my book it's debatable whether it's still a Negroni once you veer away from the formula of three-ingredients-including-gin) but like great cocktails, great variations are often simple as well.

Cutting orange peels with the Jackson Cannon Bar Knife

In that spirit I give you the Kingston Negroni. It's simple as can be: use rum instead of gin. Specifically a Jamaican rum if you have one. Jamaican rums are quite unique. They are fermented longer than most rums, and this process often includes something called "dunder" or "muck," essentially the leftover stuff from previous distillations, which is left exposed to the ambient air and microbes before being added to a fresh batch of rum. If that sounds pretty gross, it kind of is - descriptions of the muck pits at Jamaican distilleries are not exactly appealing. But the product of this fermentation is then distilled in pot stills, leaving behind anything questionable and yielding a rum that has a truly singular quality called "hogo." The word refers to the funky, fruity flavor that separated Jamaican rum from others. As my virtual friend and rum afficionado Faith writes, the hogo of Jamaican rum is similar to the smokiness of Islay Scotch - a unique flavor quality that comes from the local practices and separates it from other spirits in the same category.

Kingston Negroni

Like a smoky Scotch, a truly funky Jamaican rum can be a bit polarizing. I recently bought a bottle of Smith & Cross, the recommended rum for this cocktail, and wow is it funky. It's honestly a little much for me. I currently prefer Appleton Estate in this drink, which still has those critical qualities but tones down the funkiness in comparison. If you're a Jamaican rum novice, the Signature Blend is the bottle I'd recommend. I use it in tons of cocktails.

Jamaican rum makes the Kingston Negroni a bit sweeter and fruitier while still maintaining the balanced and bitter essence of the original drink. If you like Negronis, you've got to try this twist.

History: The Kingston Negroni was created by Joaquín Simó at Pouring Ribbons, one of my favorite bars in New York. He invented it immediately after tasting Smith & Cross for the first time.

Kingston Negroni

Kingston Negroni

1 oz. Jamaican rum
1 oz. sweet vermouth (Carpano Antica recommended)
1 oz. Campari

Combine ingredients in a mixing glass with ice and stir until chilled. Strain into a rocks glass over one large ice cube. Garnish with an orange twist.

Recipe and history from Punch.

Thursday, April 11, 2019

Seville

Seville Cocktail

Instagram has been an amazing source of new recipes for me. I have dozens of drinks bookmarked, and when I'm interested in trying something new, I often browse the list for ideas. That's how I found the Seville. My friends over at Cocktail Detour shared this lovely drink, and it instantly became a part of my repertoire.

The Seville is a variation on the classic Martini. It's still quite dry, but the floral flavor of Lillet Blanc and nutty hints of fino sherry make it a bit sweeter and more delicate. Two dashes of orange bitters and two orange twists (one flamed) lend a hefty dose of citrus. I particularly love this drink with Barr Hill Gin, which is distilled with honey.

Flaming an orange twist

Let's quickly talk about flaming twists! This does not involve actually touching the flame to the peel. Instead, you express the oils of the peel the same way you do with a regular twist, but you do it through a flame, roasting them before they hit the drink. You should see the flame flare up briefly as the oils pass through. This adds a slightly smoky, toasty flavor to the citrus oil and can really change the character of a cocktail. I added a decorative twist afterwards just for fun.

History: The Seville was created by Nick Mautone, who works as a cocktail consultant in New York. (Yes, that's a job, and yes, I want to do it.) He created it for the Michelin-starred restaurant Country (now closed).

Seville Cocktail

Seville

2 oz. gin (Barr Hill recommended)
3/4 oz. Lillet Blanc
2 dashes orange bitters
1/2 oz. fino sherry (to rinse)
2 orange twists

Rinse a coupe with the sherry and express one of the orange twists into it. Combine the remaining ingredients in a mixing glass with ice and stir until chilled. Strain into the prepared glass and flame the second orange twist over the top.

Recipe adapted from Cocktail Detour.

Monday, April 1, 2019

Principessa di Sole

Principessa di Sole Batch Cocktails

There's nothing I love better than cracking open a new cocktail recipe book. More often than not, the entire side and/or top of the book quickly becomes bristly with little post-it tabs marking the drinks I'd like to try. It's true that there are many, many great recipes available on the internet, but there's something special about having the physical books. They're like tomes of potions or magic spells waiting to be mixed up.

If I had my way, I would own pretty much every cocktail recipe book ever published. But since I have a small budget and an even smaller apartment, I've kept my collection to a single shelf. And recently, I was overjoyed to add Maggie Hoffman's Batch Cocktails to it. It's a book of large-format drinks that you can make ahead to serve at parties or get-togethers. I was expecting a lot of citrusy punches full of fruits and syrups, and there are plenty of these, but I was very impressed by how many spirit-forward options Maggie includes as well. It makes sense - once citrus fruit is juiced, the liquid begins to change in acidity and bitterness, so you can't make citrusy cocktails as far in advance as more spiritous drinks, which you can literally age for months. The book is a really balanced collection of recipes (including non-alcoholic options), and I honestly wish it had the proportions for single drinks as well as the large batches, because I definitely want to make some of these just for me, and I'd rather not have to do math.

Principessa di Sole Batch Cocktails

I freely confess that while the Principessa di Sole did sound delicious, I chose to make it primarily because of its vibrant color and lovely garnish. But I was blown away by this drink. Made with Amaro Montenegro*, white rum, raspberry syrup, citrus juices, and sparkling wine, it is absolutely, utterly delicious. It balances boozy, bitter, citrusy, sweet, and fizzy in just the right way. I will 100% be bringing a pitcher of it to my next party. But in case you don't have any upcoming social engagements, I've also figured out the recipe for a single a drink and included it below. You might wish you'd made yourself a pitcher.

*Alas, we have not talked about Amaro Montenegro much yet, and I usually like to officially introduce an ingredient before I use it so prominently in a cocktail. I discuss it a little in my post on Amari. It's one of the most popular amari out there and definitely one I recommend, but you could try substituting Averna or Cynar here.

History: The Principessa di Sole was created by Elliot Clark of Bon Voyage in San Francisco.

Principessa di Sole Batch Cocktails

Principessa di Sole

For one cocktail:

1 1/2 oz. Amaro Montenegro
1/2 oz. white rum
1-2 dashes Peychaud's bitters
1/2 oz. raspberry syrup**
1/2 oz. lemon juice
1/4 oz. lime juice
2 oz. sparkling wine

Combine everything except sparkling wine in a shaker with ice and shake until chilled. Strain into a rocks glass filled with ice and top with the sparkling wine. Garnish with a mint sprig, a raspberry, and a lime wheel.

Principessa di Sole Batch Cocktails


For 10 servings:

1 3/4 cups plus 2 tbsp. Amaro Montenegro
1/2 cup plus 2 tbsp. white rum
2 tsp. Peychaud's bitters
1/2 cup plus 2 tbsp. chilled raspberry syrup
1/2 cup plus 2 tbsp. lemon juice
5 tbsp. lime juice
2 1/2 cups chilled sparkling wine
10 mint sprigs
10 raspberries
10 lime wheels

At least 2 hours and up to 24 hours before serving, make the batch. Pour Amaro Montenegro, white rum, bitters, and chilled raspberry syrup into a 2-quart pitcher and stir to mix. Seal well, covering with plastic wrap if needed, and refrigerate.

Up to 2 hours before serving, prepare lemon and lime juice and stir into the pitcher mix. Reseal and return to the refrigerator if not serving immediately.

To serve, stir well. Gently pour in chilled sparkling wine, then stir mixture gently once more. Pour into ice-filled rocks glasses or punch cups. Garnish each glass with a mint sprig, a fresh raspberry, and a lime wheel. (Alternatively, serve in a punch bowl with all the garnishes thrown in - Maggie doesn't recommend this in the recipe but there's a picture of it and it's a beautiful presentation.)

**For raspberry syrup, combine 1 cup sugar and 1/2 cup water in a saucepan over medium heat and stir constantly, until sugar is dissolved. Add raspberries and stir. Cook for about 2 minutes, using the back of the spoon to mash the raspberries against the side of the pan. Remove from heat and let steep, covered, for 30 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a resealable container and refrigerate until chilled or up to 1 week.

Recipe from Batch Cocktails. I was gifted an advance copy of the book.